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Urinating everywhere
Species: cat | Category: general | Submitted: 08-Oct-07 06:16PM | viewed 30983 times
Q Cheryl asks about Jazz (cat - not known, M) (age 0 years, 2 months):
I have a kitten that is 7 weeks old. He was part of my adult cat's litter of 8. Now he is the only one left. I have noticed that he urinates in places he shouldn't. When he was litter trained I moved the litter tray from one room to the kitchen, so I understand him still using that same corner. I just need to re-train him not to use that corner. What I don't understand is that he uses the litter tray to defecate, but still urinates on the floor in my front room. He also urinated on me and my sofa yesterday too, he was playing with my skirt, stopped and just did it. I'm a little worried that it may be an incontinence problem, as, apart from yesterday, the traces of urine are only tiny patches, almost as if they are just trails while he's walking around. Any advice would be fantastic, I don't want to carry on like this, but I don't want to give him away either. Thanks.
Q Samantha says: Litter trays should not really be in the kitchen- so that may have been a mistake that has contributed to this problem. Cats are a bit like us and they like to urinate/defecate where it is a little bit private and well away from their food! Usually kitchens are fairly busy parts of the house with lots of family members coming and going and generally being occupied. The kitchen tends to be where cats get fed and cats do not like having their toilet next to, or near their food.
I would suggest moving the litter tray back to the original position and perhaps having a litter tray in other areas where your kitten currently likes to urinate. Once things are a little more settled you can change things slightly if you want but you need to get him well established on the litter trays to start. Remember to change the litter frequently as cats often will not urinate twice in dirty litter.
You could consider getting him checked for urinary problems by your local vet just to make sure that there is no underlying medical cause for all this. If he is OK remember that he is still very young and will occasionally have "accidents" especially if the litter trays are not to his liking and he does not really have somewhere established that he can go. If these simple methods fail then you could consult and animal behaviourist and get more detailed advice relevant to your own particular circumstances.

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Showing 1 to 20 of 535 found Next >
Injured Wild Owl
Species: bird | Category: medical-surgical | Submitted: 30-Nov-07 | viewed 1089125 times
Q Kelly asks:
I found an owl this morning, very small but adult. It flew into a power line. It's still alive. The right wing has extensive damage. I doubt the right wing can be saved. Amputation may be the only choice. The owl cannot feel the wing as it has ripped it partially off its body with its own claw. How can I help this owl. I refuse to kill it. Please this is urgent. I would really appreciate your immediate response. What supplies I will need to amputate the wing and medication and future care if the owl survives.
Q Samantha says: You cannot amputate the wing yourself! To do so if you are not a vet would be illegal and you would almost certainly do much more harm than good. Take this owl to your local vet. The majority of vets (in the UK) would take the owl and provide appropriate treatment free. But please be aware that the most appropriate and kindest treatment for a wild animal with this kind of extensive damage may well be euthanasia. Please, please do not try to treat this injured bird yourself, however well intentioned you are- you will not be able to help it if you are not a vet, you will cause unnecessary suffering and you could be prosecuted.
swollen hind leg
Species: rabbit | Category: other | Submitted: 20-Nov-07 | viewed 1089341 times
Q Zshai asks:
I have a 6-day-old bunny who has a swollen hind leg. I saw her mama step on her but I really feel guilty because I also accidentally dropped the baby bunny when I was about to return her to their nest. I'm really bothered and I don't know what to do. I hope to receive a reply message from you as soon as possible. Thank you very much and God bless.
Q Samantha says: The leg could be badly damaged, perhaps fractured you should take your rabbit to your local vet for treatment.
Sick syrian hamster
Category: general | Submitted: 08-Nov-07 | viewed 1089807 times
Q Sara asks:
Hi. My syrian hamster is 2 and half yrs. old. The last 24 hrs I have noticed a big change in his behaviour. All he wants to do is sleep, he's not eating or drinking and his eyes are not shiny. One eye was closed yesterday but with no matting or pus etc, but today its open but slit like. He sort of hunches when he walks and thats not a lot all he wants to do is stay in his house. Usually he is very active and very very sweet. He seems ill. He's also not going to urinate, his stools are normal. Please help. Thanks.
Q Samantha says: He needs prompt veterinary attention. These very small creatures become very ill very quickly and this does sound serious. Please find a vet for your hamster as a matter of urgency.
lack of sleep
Species: dog | Category: general | Submitted: 07-Nov-07 | viewed 1091978 times
Q Bill asks about billy (dog - yorkshire terrier, M) (age 1 years, 2 months):
We have a 14 month old Yorkshire terrier, which goes to bed at around 6.30pm, because I have MS and go to bed myself at this time. My wife then puts him out at 10pm, he is OK till around 4am at which time he starts barking until my wife goes into the kitchen and sits with him. If she comes back to bed he just starts barking again until she goes back to him, he then gets back into his bed and goes back to sleep, this is making my wife very tired during the day, but the dog is quite happy during the day, can you suggest any way to overcome this problem?. Thank you. Bill.
Q Samantha says: I can understand how frustrating this must be for you and your wife.

He is still a young dog and probably wants to be quite active. Make sure that he gets the opportunity to play, go for walks, explore etc in the day.

Perhaps it would be a good idea to keep him up for a longer period in the evening so that he is more tired in the early morning. If he likes to go to bed at the same time as you, perhaps your wife could wake him up for play and even a walk after an hour or so and keep him up until she then wants to go to bed.

Animals are just like us and they only need a certain amount of sleep. If the timing is too early to go to bed they will want to be up early in the morning!

For the barking during the night it is best to ignore him! I know that it is not going to be easy but your wife is rewarding the behaviour by giving him attention and he needs to learn that he must amuse himself during the night if he is awake. If she goes to him even once he will have the barking behaviour reinforced and it will continue for longer. Try to be firm and ignore him from now on if he barks at night.

At first the barking will get worse! But this will mean that the policy of ignoring him is working so do not give in! (The technical term for this is an "extinction burst" of the behaviour).

Just imagine if your boss paid you (reward) every time you said "hello" (behaviour). If suddenly your boss stopped paying you when you said "hello" and did not explain the reason, would you not say "hello" more loudly and frequently just in case he had not heard you? (extinction burst of behaviour). Eventually you would get the message that the reward was no longer forthcoming and you would no longer bother to say "hello" (extinction of behaviour).

Its the same for pets, and if you ignore the behaviour they will no longer get the reward (in your dog's case attention at night) - so they try harder for some time- then give up.

Remember that a reward as far as the dog is concerned may include being shouted at/ punished! You must completely ignore the barking- you and your wife should ideally remain silent and in your beds, do not even bother to turn the lights on and do not make any noise if you can help it!

This is not going to be easy and short term will result in you both being very tired but in the end it will hopefully work- allow a few weeks, not just days though. Do not do this unless you are sure you can carry it through, if you give in just once you will have to start all over again!

Something which might help to sort out the problem a bit faster is an anti-bark collar such as the Abiostop collar. When the dog barks it squirts a spray of citronella up to the dogs nose which dogs do not like! This teaches them that when wearing the collar it is best not to bark!

In your case it might be a good idea to get your dog to wear the collar at night as well as ignoring any barking he may do- it may speed the process up a bit.

So in summary;

Make sure your dog is more active in the day and early evening- he is probably going to bed way too early at the moment.

Try the anti-barking collar for him to wear at night.

Completely ignore any barking during the night- do not reward this behaviour at all ever!

If this does not work consult a local animal behaviourist who may be able to help further.

Good luck!
wet tail
Category: general | Submitted: 06-Nov-07 | viewed 1083318 times
Q Evelyn asks:
Can a young hamster be successfully treated for wet tail and what would it roughly cost?
Q Samantha says: It is sometimes possible to treat wet tail in hamsters successfully- but it is a serious condition and there are never any guarantees.

You should ask your local vet what it will cost as this will vary from area to area and even then you may only be given a rough estimate as it will depend upon exactly what treatment is required.

There is no real "set formula" for treatment of such conditions, since each individual case is treated as just that, with its own set of needs and requirements. Most vets are happy to discuss issues of cost and are understanding of the fact that sometimes this is a very important factor to be taken into consideration when deciding the best course of action to take.
Species: dog | Category: behaviour | Submitted: 06-Nov-07 | viewed 1092188 times
Q Elaine asks about Alfie (dog - british bulldog, M) (age 2 years, 1 months):
Hi Sam Thank you. Alfie has no feeding time he just has food in his bowl when he wants it as he doesn't eat it when served, he is not a greedy dog. He plays all day with us a different times but no set time. We have a big garden and he has never really had walks partly because he will not get his lead on. However I have managed to get it on yesterday and will leave it on. Alfie sleeps at the same time as us usually he has a crate which is his bed. So all in all he has no set routine. After reading this I know this is a problem. How do I fix it?
Q Samantha says: You may have lots of work to do here! Lets start with feeding. A dominant animal would eat the choicest parts of the kill in a wild pack situation and would also be able to eat when he liked. This is the situation for Alfie- tasty food is available at any time he likes and he does not even have to work for it. See it from his point of view- the lesser members of the pack have done all the work to bring food to him and now leave him in peace to eat it as and when he likes!

Start by taking up the food bowls and deciding on a strictly timed feeding regime. You might like to feed him a small amount in the morning and his main meal at night for example. You should take up any food which remains after 20 minutes and he should have no further access to food until the next meal time. (Do not attempt to remove food while he is eating as this may lead to you getting bitten). Ideally he should be fed enough to satisfy him but he should be hungry again at the next meal time- if he does not eat at all for a meal don't worry-he will be hungry next time or the next.

If he is a little bit hungry at his meal time it will make your job of establishing yourself as pack leader easier. Ideally he should be allowed to see you eating your meal before he is given any food (do not ever feed him scraps from the table). Let him see you eat peacefully while you ignore any attempts he might make to get scraps etc. Later when you have cleaned up etc it will be his turn. If he knows any basic obedience commands such as sit he should be asked to do so before he receives his food (he should work a little for his reward). Let him feed in peace (as not to do so may result in a bite) but remove any left over food once he leaves his dish.

I suspect that you may play with Alfie when he wants, not when you initiate it. Play is good but it should be on your terms not his. Set aside a time for play if possible and otherwise ignore his attempts to involve you in games. At play time call him to you to initiate the game. Obedience commands are a good idea and if possible a training class would really help.

I am pleased you have a lead on Alfie it will give you more control- keep it on and if you can, use a long lead to pull him off the furniture- his place should be firmly on the floor not the raised chairs and sofas which should be the privilege of the pack leaders alone. (Do not challenge him if you may get bitten though)

Ideally Alfie should sleep downstairs and it is good that he sleeps in his crate- hopefully not in your bedroom?

Remember that Alfie will definitely see all this as a direct challenge to his dominant position and things may get worse for a while! If you feel that you are in any danger of being bitten- do not challenge him or make the changes I have suggested- your safety must come first. I would suggest the change to his feeding regime may be the easiest to make first and present fewest difficulties for the biggest impact.

Whatever you do at the moment though do not try to take food/ objects away from Alfie while he is nearby- this may come later but the other changes should be well established first and he may always be unreliable in this respect.

Good luck and let me know how you get on. Ideally you should consult your own animal trainer or behaviourist as soon as you can. Your own safety must always come first so do not attempt any direct challenges to Alfie which could get you bitten!
Guarding problem
Species: dog | Category: behaviour | Submitted: 05-Nov-07 | viewed 1091450 times
Q Elaine asks about Alfie (dog - british bulldog, M) (age 2 years, 1 months):
Alfie is a terrible guarder and will take your hand off if you try and retrieve an object he is not allowed. It is almost like he looks for things to guard? He will not let you put on a lead. He will not let me remove him from furniture. I have had him castrated to try to solve this issue and it has not worked. He has given my daughter and I nasty bites also. These are the bad things which happen generally on a twice daily basis. The rest of the time his character is so good and that is the reason I am having so much difficulty in this problem. I have asked breeders for help but have got no where with it. Please save Alfie?
Q Samantha says: It sounds as if Alfie may be too dominant and considers himself to be the boss. Dogs still think much as they would if they were in a pack situation and they consider we humans to be members of their "pack".

Some dogs have a tendency to want to be the leaders in their pack and they do require special treatment if things are not to get out of hand. As caring owners we can often give the wrong signals to such pets and what we see as care and consideration for their welfare, they see as our submission to their superior leadership! If they then consider our actions (such as approaching a coveted object or trying to remove them from their place on the sofa) as a challenge to their dominant position in the family pack they will warn and then sometimes bite to repress our challenge.

Since Alfie has already bitten I would strongly suggest that you get in touch with an animal behaviourist in your area to help you with this problem. Also while you are waiting for help and advice, avoid all the situations which provoke Alfie to bite and supervise him at all times when he is with children.

Any behavioural changes you must make will take time and effort on your part so you need to be prepared to work with a behaviourist to get the best outcome for you and Alfie. I hope it all goes well for you!
White Gums and Dark Stool
Species: dog | Category: medical-surgical | Submitted: 02-Nov-07 | viewed 1095283 times
Q Leslie asks:
My 8 week old American Bulldog has really white gums, around the eyes is also white. She has dark stool. What can the problem be?
Q Samantha says: I think you should take your puppy to your vet as soon as you can. The signs you describe may be due to some sort of bleeding disorder. It is obviously impossible to make any kind of diagnosis over the internet but I would recommend that you take this problem seriously and seek veterinary attention promptly.
Dog's Health
Species: dog | Category: general | Submitted: 01-Nov-07 | viewed 1092372 times
Q William asks:
My dog is around 11 years old, possibly older (we received her as she was taken from a bad owner seven years ago) and is a Yorkshire Terrier. She has began to urinate and excrete indoors and nowadays rarely leaves her bed. She has a bad smell, although we wash her at least once a week. Her fitness is deteriorating also. Is she just getting old or is she sick?
Q Samantha says: Old age is not a disease! There are many diseases and problems which are more common in older animals, but many of them go undiagnosed and untreated because people put the signs down to "just getting old". It does sound like your dog is unwell and it is possible that if the problem is diagnosed and treated in good time your dog may continue to enjoy a reasonable quality of life for some time. However things will only deteriorate if you leave them. Obviously when you consult your vet about the problem they will take your dog's age into consideration when suggesting an appropriate course of action and hopefully you will be able to find a way of allowing your older dog to have the best possible outcome. I hope it all goes well for her.
Species: dog | Category: behaviour | Submitted: 31-Oct-07 | viewed 1092167 times
Q Debby asks about max (dog - staffordshire bull terrier, M) (age 0 years, 6 months):
Hi Max is very lively of course but he seems to get very excited and bites the children, not hard or breaking the skin but nevertheless painful. He has all his adult teeth I think but still chews everything. He has his own toys /chews etc but he's worse now than ever. Any suggestions?
Q Samantha says: This may be a play activity but it does need to be addressed. You may be able to tell if this is definitely a play activity by looking out for the "play-bow" which dogs will often make to signal non-aggression. They tend to bow their front end leaving their bottom in the air and tail often wagging.

The biting (in play or not), does need to stop. Try to think of situations which invoke the biting and then avoid them completely (make sure everyone in the household does this). Then start to teach Max basic obedience commands such as "sit" and "down". Start to teach him when he is very calm, but as he learns you can ask him to perform these tasks in more exciting situations until you are sure you have complete control over him in all situations. He should be taught to respond to obedience commands from all members of the family. In this way he should eventually be asked to "sit" or go "down" before play becomes too rough.

Staffies can grow to be very strong dogs with incredibly powerful jaws. There is always a chance that things can unexpectedly get out of hand with dogs and children with tragic consequences. I would recommend that dogs are NEVER left alone at all with young children- who may not be able to recognise the signs of a problem developing/ warning signals given by the dog etc. They are also not strong enough to fight off any attack.

With older children it is still very necessary to exercise caution, especially with stronger breeds of dog.

Dogs do make great pets and with time hopefully Max will grow into a lovely family pet, but we must also remember that dogs are natural predators with an inbuilt desire to hunt, stalk, chase, kill and eat. Each of these behaviours brings a reward of its own so dogs can enjoy the "chase" without necessarily wishing to "kill" or "eat" but unfortunately things can get out of hand when the thrill of the activity is high. That is why dogs can be a problem when children are around since they are around the size of a dogs natural prey, they run and scream or make high pitched noises as would prey species and once caught or bitten they continue to do all these things which excite a dog and arouse it further. For example it is very difficult to teach a child to stay still rather than run when threatened by a dog and in this way the child will almost certainly get chased.

I definitely do not want to sound alarmist but the primary concern must be the safety of your children. It is probably a minor play problem at the moment due to Max's young age. To prevent anything further developing supervise the dog and children carefully and perhaps involve an animal behaviourist in your area who can help much more than I can over the internet.
Blood in dog's stools
Species: dog | Category: medical-surgical | Submitted: 31-Oct-07 | viewed 1096112 times
Q Lee asks about CocoMcHugh (dog - Labrador, F) :
Hi. We recently got a 3 year old Labrador from a friend. From what we can see she has a little weight problem as she was not walked regularly which we are now doing twice a day. As we have only had her for 4 days we have not had chance to take her to the vets to have her general health checked. On Monday she developed diarrhoea which we read is usual if exercise is increased. But then last night Coco had very noticeably lines of blood running through her stools. She is drinking water constantly but is not off her food and is still quite playful. This is our first dog and we are really concerned as to if she needs a vets attention straight away. Please could you advise us. Many thanks
Q Samantha says: Yes, Coco should be taken to the vet. Although the signs of fresh blood in stools with diarrhoea is common in dogs it should still be taken seriously, especially as you say "she is drinking water constantly".

One of the most likely causes of this type of problem is colitis which usually responds very well to treatment and often a bland diet for a few days/ weeks.

Sometimes dogs can be quite sensitive to any change in their environment and usual diet, and Coco has probably been a little stressed recently with all the changes to her lifestyle. It will probably help her settle if you can ensure that her routine is as regular and predictable as possible (at least for the first few weeks). A DAP diffuser may well help too- (this calms and helps to reduce stress in dogs).
upset stomach
Species: dog | Category: general | Submitted: 30-Oct-07 | viewed 1093145 times
Q kat asks about patches (dog - jack russel terrior, F) (age 4 years, 4 months):
About three days ago my dog started acting like she was sick; diarrhoea and vomiting along with excessive sneezing and a general unwell disposition. She also seems to be dehydrated; I have to fill her water dish almost ten times a day which very abnormal for her. I was just wondering what I can do to help with this issue or at least make her more comfortable?
Q Samantha says: Your dog needs to go to the vet as soon as you can. The dehydration and excessive drinking can be caused by many problems- some of them serious. The other signs are also of concern. I would strongly recommend that you take your dog along to your local vet- I do not think that home treatment would be appropriate in this situation.
Blood in Poo
Species: cat | Category: general | Submitted: 28-Oct-07 | viewed 1092295 times
Q Mandy asks about Treacle (cat - not known, F) (age 0 years, 3 months):
Treacle is now 9 wks old and had her first vaccination two days ago. I have noticed that at least once a day she has a small amount of fresh bright red blood in her poo. Her poo isn't hard so I don't think that she is constipated at all, it is quite soft really. I am feeding her Whiskas kitten food meat pouches and adding to that whiskas kitten dried food, (half & half). Please can you advise what I should do next as this is quite worrying & I am not sure whether I should take her back to the vet. He did check her over when she had her first jab and he said that she was fine & healthy. Thank-you & kind regards Mandy
Q Samantha says: You should take your kitten back to the vet; it sounds as if there could be a slight gastrointestinal problem. This type of problem is quite common in young animals and often not detectable unless you happen to see the faeces (which most vets don't get to see at the vaccination visit!). It can also develop quite quickly and may not have been present at all when you first saw the vet. Usually kittens with this type of problem do very well with no long term issues, but do take your kitten to the vet for proper diagnosis and treatment as necessary.
Species: cat | Category: petcare | Submitted: 27-Oct-07 | viewed 1092050 times
Q ashen1956 asks about Molly-Mae (cat - moggy, F) (age 1 years, 4 months):
3 days ago Molly-Mae gave birth to 5 kittens. How long should I wait before having her neutered and how much will it cost?
Q Samantha says: She should be spayed soon after the kittens are weaned so that she does not become pregnant again. The exact timing will depend upon her condition and your vet's prefered time to do this ( I personally would do this when the kittens are about 8 weeks of age but your vet may prefer to wait a little longer or do it earlier). How much it will cost very much depends on your individual vet too, and perhaps on your area. Ask your local vets what they would charge and find somebody you are happy with- remember that a few pounds difference in cost may be worth it if you find a vet you feel happy to deal with and can build a good relationship with for the benefit of your cat.
Ordering Insulin Online
Species: cat | Category: medical-surgical | Submitted: 26-Oct-07 | viewed 1093500 times
Q Purdie asks about Purdie (cat - not known, F) :
Purdie is diabetic and I'm keen to find a way of reducing the cost of the treatment. Currently Purdie needs Insuvet Protamine and Hills KD to keep her in good health. I've found a number of online retailers that would reduce the monthly cost from around 110 to 70! This is around 480pa. However, I'm concerned that the Insulin won't have been kept at the correct temperature by the retailer and/or that it will get too warm during transit. Should I be concerned, or are the retailers legally obliged to keep/transport it correctly?
Q Samantha says: This is a bit of a worry and I would suggest you contact the retailer whom you intend to use before making a purchase. It is necessary to store and transport insulin at the correct temperature otherwise it can become spoiled.

Ask the supplier if they use a pharmaceutical fridge to store the drugs requiring refrigeration (domestic fridges may not be so reliable in maintaining an adequate temperature). Also ask them if they use special packaging to ensure that the insulin is maintained at the correct temperature during transport.

If you are happy that the supplier can answer your questions and seems knowledgeable about these types of issues then you may feel more comfortable about making such a purchase.

I believe it is a legal requirement to supply goods which are fit for the purpose intended so you will have rights under the Distance Selling Regulations etc; however it could be difficult for you to be able to tell if there is a problem with the insulin very easily so you should try very hard to find a reputable supplier.
Fleas and skin problem
Category: general | Submitted: 26-Oct-07 | viewed 1090974 times
Q Joanne asks:
I have two cats, a neutered tom and his sister. They are 6 and a half yrs. old. They have never been outdoors. A few days ago I was a bit concerned when scratching my tom cat's neck I noticed it was scabby under his thick coat (short haired) the more I felt , the more I found. I was debating a trip to the PDSA as I am disabled and cannot afford a vet. But then tonight for the first time in over six years I find 2 fleas on me and 2 on my sofa within the space of 30 minutes ! Needless to say I'm horrified. My tom is the friendlier of the two and if he can't sleep on me he will sleep very close to me. His appetite seems fine, his coat LOOKS fine. So other than starting a flea treatment on both cats is there anything I should be doing for his skin ? Why this would suddenly start ? I have never had another animal in the house since these cats have owned me.
Q Samantha says: Download the free e-book about fleas- it is on the home page of this site- you will find this better and more detailed than the short answer I can give here. If you understand the flea life-cycle you will be able to tackle the problem much better! There is not much you can do for your cat apart from getting rid of the fleas and perhaps a trip to the PDSA if your cat becomes very uncomfortable (there are some prescription medicines which can be used to ease any itching).
The most important things to remember when treating fleas are to treat both cats at the same time, treat the house effectively and keep going with treatment even if at first it does not appear to work. Please do read the e-book it will answer most of your questions I hope!
My cat has a hole in its stomach!
Species: cat | Category: medical-surgical | Submitted: 23-Oct-07 | viewed 1093637 times
Q Sarah asks about Pogo (cat - not known, M) :
My cat has a hole the size of a dime in its stomach. He doesn't seem to be in any pain. He wants to lick it a lot. I have no money for a vet. What can I do?
Q Samantha says: Oh dear! I am sorry to hear this but you really must see a vet about the problem. Just think, if you had a hole in your abdomen- would you attempt home treatment? Take your cat to your vet promptly- if you get the problem sorted out sooner rather than later it could save you money in the long run (because things like this can easily get worse and therefore more expensive to treat if left).
labrador vomiting bile and nearly passing out
Category: general | Submitted: 22-Oct-07 | viewed 1091030 times
Q Paul asks:
Hi there - our five year old male labrador is generally in very good health - excellent appetite, plenty of exercise etc. Occasionally he vomits yellow bile which we are told is not unusual. On two recent occasions now he has tried to vomit, has been unable to, his throat muscles seem to contract as he tries to vomit and he appears to momentarily pass out through lack of air and falls to the floor. Within seconds he recovers and appears absolutely fine again. Obviously this scares the life out of us and we are very worried there is a more serious problem. I can also recall this happened once when he was just 1 year old. Would be obliged for any advice. Many thanks. Paul N
Q Samantha says: This does sound a bit worrying, and I can completely understand your concern. It is true that vomiting bile is reasonably common in dogs, but the episodes of apparently collapsing is much more of a concern and much more unusual. I would recommend that you take your dog to your vet and explain what happens when your dog tries to vomit. Once they have had a look at your dog they may be able to give you information about why this is happening or recommend further tests.
Guinea pig fits
Species: guinea pig | Category: behaviour | Submitted: 22-Oct-07 | viewed 1091146 times
Q Renate asks about Africa (guinea pig - Black brown and white, M) :
My guinea pig is acting strange. I've only had him around a week and he's running as if spooked but then shaking his head as if to get something off it... he does it a lot now and never did it before... That doesn't sound like a great description. Ermmm.. just looks like something annoys its ears or head and it tries to get away from it but can't so it jumps and runs about.
Q Samantha says: It sounds as if your guinea pig has some sort of discomfort around his head. This could really involve anything in that area including the mouth, ears, eyes, skin etc- it is really impossible to say exactly what is going on without actually being able to see him. If it has not calmed down by the time you receive this reply I would suggest you call your vet to get him checked and examined.
Species: dog | Category: nutrition | Submitted: 22-Oct-07 | viewed 1092630 times
Q Terry asks:
Is it safe to feed my GSD raw chicken wings, he is 16 months old and is 37 kg?
Q Samantha says: There is a bit of a debate at the moment about raw feeding for dogs and cats. My own opinion is that there is no real right or wrong answer to this, but it must be an individual choice for the owner whether to feed raw foods or not. Of course it is important to gather as much information as possible in order to make the right choice for yourself and your dog.

You do not say if you intend to feed a completely raw food diet or if it will just be part of his diet, either way some or all of these issues are things you may wish to consider.

Remember that everything we do carries some element of risk and there is not really any food which is guaranteed absolutely "safe". I personally would be happy to feed my dogs a raw food diet, but be careful to do it in a sensible way.

The main problems with feeding raw chicken wings could be; potential risks with food borne pathogens such as salmonella, campylobacter etc (this is a risk for humans too), potential problems associated with eating bones (such as impaction in the gut, broken teeth etc), risk of feeding a diet which does not meet all nutritional needs (look into providing a properly balanced diet).

Having said all this I am quite in favour of raw food diets for dogs- it is after all what they are supposed to eat! If you would like to pursue this topic further look into the BARF and raw meaty bones diets. You can find lots of information about these on the internet and there are some books you can buy too.
Showing 1 to 20 of 535 found Next >

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Download Free for Registered Users of VetAsk: "Everything You Ever Wanted To Ask The Vet About Fleas" 7500-word EBook by Samantha Coe BVetMed MRCVS

What's in the Flea EBook from VetAsk?

  • Have you ever wondered why your vet says your pet has a flea problem even though you have never even seen a single flea?
  • Or why only one of your pets is affected by fleas and the others are fine?
  • Or perhaps you are having huge problems with fleas and nothing seems to get rid of them?
  • Are you spending loads of money on flea products which don't seem to work?
  • If the answer to any of these questions is "yes" then the information in the VetAsk Flea E-Book could be worth a great deal to you. To get this excellent Ebook, all you need to do is register free with VetAsk. You will then receive an email link to download your Free VetAsk Flea E-Book!

This EBook is packed with useful information: over 7500 words in plain language with no jargon plus easy-to-understand diagrams.

The VetAsk Fleas EBook is essential reading for anyone with a domestic pet. Chapter headings include:

  • Differences between common fleas
  • The Life Cycle Of The Flea
  • How Do Pets Catch Fleas?
  • Are Fleas Only A Summer Problem?
  • How Can I Tell If My Pet Has Fleas?
  • Why Does My Pet Scratch When Bitten By Fleas?
  • Why Is One Of My Pets Affected By Fleas While All The Others Are Fine?
  • What Are The Signs Of Flea Allergy In Pets?
  • How Can My Pet Be Treated For Flea Allergy?
  • I Think I May Have Been Bitten By Fleas, Is This Possible?
  • Can Fleas Cause Any Other Problems?
  • How Can I Treat My Pets for Fleas?
  • Can Pet Rabbits Be Treated For Fleas Too?
  • My House Is Infested With Fleas, How Can I Get Rid Of Them?
  • How Long Will It Take To Get Rid of Fleas In My Home?
  • Can Fleas Live Outside Too?
  • What Is The Best Method Of Preventing a Flea Problem?

This EBook can be yours completely free simply by registering with now!

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